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Free quote
Tree Planting
Right tree, right place — species selection and planting for East Texas clay soil, done to survive the first summers. Call (936) 648-2843.
Most young trees that die in East Texas were killed at planting, not by weather. Buried too deep, dropped into a narrow hole in unforgiving clay, mulched into a volcano against the trunk, and then watered on a schedule that suited the person rather than the tree. Species choice and planting technique decide whether a tree is still there in ten years far more than anything you do afterward.
Call (936) 648-2843 to talk through what belongs on your property.
Start with the site, not the catalog. How much sun does the spot get, how wet does it stay after a hard rain, how much room is there overhead and underground, and what is the tree actually for — shade over a west wall, screening, wildlife, fruit, or replacing something that came out?
The natives of this region cover most needs. Post oak is slow and durable but hates having its roots disturbed, so it belongs on undisturbed ground rather than in a fresh construction site. Southern red oak gives good shade and better structure than the water oak everyone defaults to. Loblolly and shortleaf pine belong where there is room for a tall tree with a shallow root plate and no roof under it. Texas redbud handles the small flowering role that Callery pear was doing badly. Sweetgum is native and useful, and the gumballs mean it belongs at the back of a property rather than over a patio.
Edible plantings fit the same logic. Fruit and nut trees that suit this climate and this soil, sited where they get the sun and the drainage they need, are part of the same "sustainable landscape" idea as a pollinator patch — they just produce food while they are at it.
Clay is the constraint. It holds water, drains slowly, and compacts under equipment, so the standard advice written for loam actively hurts here.
The hole goes wide and shallow — two to three times the width of the root ball, no deeper than the ball itself. Wide because roots spread laterally far more than they go down. No deeper because a tree planted in loosened soil settles, and a settled tree sits too low in ground that already holds water.
Backfill with the soil that came out. Filling a clay hole with rich amended potting mix builds a bathtub: water runs into the amended pocket, has nowhere to go through the clay walls, and the roots stay in the good stuff instead of extending into the site.
The root flare — where the trunk widens into the roots — sits at or slightly above grade. Nursery stock is very often too deep in its own container, which means finding the flare rather than trusting the top of the pot.
Container roots get inspected and corrected. A root circling the inside of a pot keeps circling after planting and can eventually girdle the trunk. That gets cut or straightened at planting, when it is a two-minute job instead of a fatal problem a decade out.
Mulch goes out, not up: a wide ring two to three inches deep, pulled back off the trunk. Mulch piled against bark holds moisture against it and invites decay.
That is the whole game. A newly planted tree has a root system sized for its container and a canopy sized for a nursery bed with irrigation. Until the roots extend into the surrounding soil, it cannot supply itself through an East Texas August.
Water deeply and infrequently — a long slow soak that wets the whole root ball and the ground around it, then a gap that lets the soil breathe. Frequent shallow watering keeps the roots at the surface, which is exactly where they will die first in a drought. And keep string trimmers and mowers away from the trunk; mechanical damage at the base kills more young trees than any pest.
Included
Typical range: Quoted per property
Reviews
I can’t say enough great things about this company! They were incredibly friendly, professional, and truly a breath of fresh air to work with. They safely removed a dead tree from my property and even went above and beyond by neatly stacking the wood for me to use as firewood this year. Their prices were very fair, and the quality of their work exceeded my expectations. The Arborist (billy) helped me identify every tree on my property. If you’re looking for a reliable, honest, educated and skilled tree service, I highly recommend Branching Out Arboreal and Native Plant Specialists — you won’t be disappointed!Victoria Tillman · 8 months ago
Branching Out did an amazing job removing a dangerously dead pine tree from our backyard. The tree was right next to power lines, a transformer pole, fences, and close to our home, so it was a very difficult removal with almost no room for error. The tree was so dead it was basically crumbling while they climbed it, but their crew handled everything safely and professionally without causing any damage at all. What made the job even more difficult was that another healthy tree had actually started growing out of the dead pine, and they were able to carefully remove the pine while saving the healthy tree as well. A few weeks later, another company working nearby actually dropped a tree into power lines and took down a transformer pole — which made us even more grateful we hired Branching Out. These guys clearly know what they’re doing. Highly recommend them for any tree removal or dangerous tree work.Kenzi Standley · 2 months ago
First I want to say Branching Out is a professional company. After talking to Billy he sent me a printed quote for the work we had viewed and discussed . He removed three trees for us. His price was far more reasonable than the three other verbal quotes I had received. Also the other companies came back with lower offers after their bids were rejected. The bids were still not as low as Branching Out. The job was done super well and we enjoyed working with his whole crew, including his associate Tyler who did the stump grinding.Judy Price · a month ago
They did an excellent job cutting down a tall dead pine that was in a tight spot—no one’s favorite thing to do! Great communication, friendly, professional, and courteous. We had a challenge finding someone to service our area, so we are grateful and would highly recommend.everyotherone12 · a year ago
I was trying to save a tree and most companies want to just cut them down. But Kat & Billy went over and beyond to help me save my tree. They had to cut off alot more of the rotton branches than expected. But at least I should be able to keep this tree for were hoping another 5 yrs so I have time to get another one planted and growing before I lose this one. It's my only shade tree. They were very reasonable in thier prices and very knowledgeable. Would definitely use them again and refer them out. Thanks guysKim Taylor · a year ago
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Questions
Fall through winter, by a wide margin. Planting in November gives a tree several months of cool, moist soil to grow roots before it has to support leaves in heat. Planting the same tree in May means it spends its first summer trying to establish roots and run a canopy at the same time, in the hardest conditions of the year. Spring planting works if you commit to the watering. Summer planting is a rescue operation from day one.
Far enough that its mature canopy is not on the roof and its mature trunk is not against the foundation, which for a large shade tree means considerably farther than the sapling makes it feel. Look up before you dig for the service drop, and know where the septic field and the water line run — roots follow moisture, and a field line is a moisture source. Large trees over a drain field are a slow-motion problem.
Usually not. A trunk that flexes in the wind builds taper and strength; a rigidly staked trunk does not, and stakes left on too long girdle the tree with their own ties. Stake only when the tree genuinely will not stand — a tall thin whip, a very exposed site, or loose ground — and use a wide flexible tie, low on the trunk, removed after one growing season.
Smaller than you want. A smaller-caliper tree loses less of its root system in the move, establishes faster, and routinely overtakes a large expensive specimen planted the same day. Paying for size mostly buys a few years of appearance and a longer, riskier establishment period.
Not automatically, and not as a package deal. But when a tree comes out there is a gap, and in this region that gap fills with Chinese tallow or privet if nothing else claims it. Deciding what goes back — a shade tree, an understory native, a pollinator bed, a fruit tree — is a conversation worth having while the site is open.
Get in touch
Call and talk to someone who does the work, or send the details and we'll come back to you the same day.
Call (936) 648-2843